Tuesday, September 11, 2007

the house dog, Gosher


Here's a pic of gosher, the dog that lives in our house, actually outside the house, but with a doghouse. He looks fierce, but isnt.
I'll send some more pics in the next week or so that show more of Gyumri so you can get a flavor of the city.

a couple of pics - September 11,2007



This is a pic that shows some of the earthquake results which remains after nearly 20 years.
The adjacent pic shows some of the really pretty iron work on the balcony and rain spout.



Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Saturday, August 31

Dear faithful readers,

Several of you have asked for information about what I do during a typical day. Well, there are no typical days, so I’ll give you a couple of examples:

Friday, 8/31

Breakfast of cream of wheat with raisins. Quick check-in at the lavash bakery downstairs then off to American Corner to use the internet (3 computers and DSL – free – supplied by Amer. Embassy- also good library). Ran into a couple of vols there also checking their emails. I was there right at 9 am when they were supposed to open. 25 minutes later, the only employee with the key to the computer room showed up. At about 10, I walked to a main square to my next meeting.

The meeting was w/ a young woman who works w/ a local NGO in the area of domestic violence. Armenia has no separate laws governing domestic violence – they are probably where US was in the 60s – police don’t wont to get involved, consider it a family problem, etc. We had a very interesting conversation about what they do and the problems they face trying to find some help for abused women (and occasionally men). Their president spoke in Armenian and my contact, who is quite fluent in English, translated for us. They are looking for someone to lead a session during a police training course about what US does in the domestic violence area – how various interested groups interact, legal framework, etc. I assume this info is available on the internet so agreed to do it. Then we walked to a business expo conducted in an open area near the shooka. On the way, we stopped at a stationery story that can make business cards and she helped me explain what I wanted to the non-English speaking staff – essentially my name, phone no and email in English on one side and Armenian on the other.

We ran into several other vols at the “expo” which consisted of about 20 booths with people giving information about their businesses. The pickings are pretty lean. A couple of honey vendors, the local brewery, a couple of textile shops and a few others. I bought a decent bath towel from one of the vendors for about $4.50. What Americans think of as basic marketing and advertising activities are not widely employed in Armenia. That may be a good thing given the high annoyance level of American ads. However, it might help your honey sales if you had some marketing or packaging that differentiated your product from all the other honey being sold in plain glass jars. And the only way I found out about the expo was word of mouth from other vols.

Met some USAID people – important to know as that organization is a big player in Armenian assistance programs.

A few vols and I went to another vol’s office in a newly restored building. It was great to see one of the earthquake “victims” rebuilt and functioning in a new way. The before and after pics in the hallways showed the extreme decimation the renovators faced.

Ate lunch in a Georgian restaurant w/ 6 other vols.

Went home. Studied my Armenian text book to prepare for my language lesson.

Went to the lesson. I’m taking it for granted that you understand I walk almost everywhere. From time to time I’ll take one of the marshutni’s a few blocks. Mainly its gunoom votkov (go by foot).

The lesson occurs in the tutor’s shop in the shooka area. She sells baby products, cloth and notions (buttons, ribbons, etc) and on a lower floor, bridal gowns and paraphernalia. Our class is on the third floor. There is no separate classroom, so we are frequently interrupted by browsing customers. We are reviewing my PST textbook from the beginning. It’s much more understandable now that I have a base. At least, I can pronounce the words and the various grammar rules, while not internalized yet, don’t seem as indecipherable as they did initially.

Dinner at home w/ several family members (there are always lots of relatives and sometimes friends around so I’m not always sure who is at the table). A nice soup with potatoes and chicken, salad (basically cole slaw), and a combo of peppers, onions, tomatoes and eggplant cooked together. Of course, lavash and lots of fruit. Peaches are good now as well as plums, grapes and apples.,

Saturday, among other things, I had my first haircut and a pedicure. Both well done. The hairdresser speaks Enlish and is used by other vols. Who should I see when I went in but my counterpart and her boss, the program director for my NGO, getting groomed for their trip to Georgia this week. Small town. Went back to the stationery store to review the sample of business card. Spent quite a while getting the font and colors I wanted. Dark red name, medium gray other info, simple font, thick white card stock.

Sunday, Betty and I went to Yerevan to visit vernisage, the huge weekend open market. We rode the marshutnis there and back and the less said about that, the better. Just one hint – many Armenians think open air will be bad for you, so windows stayed closed --- and it was a very hot day. Not only were all 15 seats in the bus filled, the driver stopped to pick up extra passengers (apparently not allowed but done anyway).

The vernisage is filled with vendors selling everything you can imagine – lovely rugs, beautifully paisley fine wool shawls (I was tempted but didn’t buy anything), folk art, Russian dolls, jewelry, used and new china, glassware, etc., beautifully made wood chess/backgammon sets with exquisite inlays, fine crochet work, embroidered linens, dental and medical instruments(!), and precision tools.

Today (Monday), Emma made my coffee and heated water for the bath. I like my time with Emma in the mornings. As the day goes on, she gets very busy with her family responsibilities. She reads my fortune from the coffee grounds left in the cup. Its always a good one. I had a bucket bath and washed a few whites in a bleach/soap solution and hung them on the outdoor line. I made my own breakfast burrito w/ eggs and ham and lavash. That’s one flexible bread. I picked up a small chunk of ham at one of the stores on Saturday and have been nibbling on it every since. My first ham since I arrived in Armenia.

I was at the American Corner on the internet (where you can find me most mornings) when I received a text message from one of the vols asking if I can help him teach an English conversation class at 11. I received the text at 10:15. Flexible, adventurous me said of course. We met at 10:45, put together a quick lesson plan and dove in. The class was great fun. Close to 20 students, all of whom are involved in computer training courses at this NGO (the restored NGO I visited Friday). It provides market-driven computer training to interested young adults. The average age was about 25. Their English was much better than my Armenian and many had studied it for years in school. Unfortunately, the method of teaching here does not involve conversation so this class is important for those who want to have the best job opportunities. I think Armenia would be ripe for some call centers and help centers. While there are a lot of barriers, a great many underemployed people here would love to have those jobs.

After class, I walked home, made a ham, lettuce, tomato sandwich on lavash (I found lettuce at the market on Saturday - a rareity - and quickly grabbed it).
A quick review of my textbook and off to another language lesson.

A stop at the stationery store revealed they printed my cards w/ incorrect colors. It took awhile, some patience and finally an examination of the proof they gave me on Saturday for them to agree to reprint them correctly. Hopefully, I pick up the good ones tomorrow.

Home, a little rest and for dinner a salad with buckwheat, tomato, peppers, cucumber and salad dressing I made myself. Joined others in the household later on for some fruit.

This has turned out to be a very long entry. Let me know your questions and anything else you would like to hear about and I will try to address them in future posts. I’ll get some pics of the shooka and a few other places to give you more of a flavor of the place.

Elizabeth