Thursday, March 26, 2009

Once again, getting the pics in the right order is almost impossible in blogger. Sorry for the lack of chronology.







Dog in village where new fish farm will be located. Yes that is a partially buried goat he is eating.








The fish hatchery where we bought the first 5000 fish is located near Gyumri in the middle of nowhere.
















Some of the fish being scooped up.
























Sergei (the business owner) testing the water temp at the pond in his village and on top of the dam.












Another picture of the fish hatchery - really, in the middle of
nowhere.










Putting the hatchery fish into the container that transported them to the village.
























Sergei showing some of the materials he will use to fence the pond in once the ground unthaws.

























putting the new fish into the pond.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Surb sarkis and Peace Corps Week



In front of volunteer's house in one of the carnival villages on the day of the carnival.















The inside of her house. She uses 4 types of fuel to heat the one room in which heat is possible: Naf (some kind of accelerant), dried cow poop, coal and wood. She has to gather the wood and coal from her barn every day. And, yes, the toilet is outdoors and there is no seat. I live in luxury compared to this. My toilet is inside, has a seat and usually works. I have radiator heat that works as long as we have electricity and gas (most of the time). Ditto for hot water.






kids in the orphanage making chocolate chip cookies.

















Carnival in village schools.




Making masks.









Teachers playing jump rope before the carnival starts. Note they are jumping w/ coats and HIGH HEELS!


















After several heats of 3-legged races, the kids tried wheelbarrow races.



Kids eating chocolate chip cookies at a Gyumri orphanage.











Dancing at Surb Sarkis.

March madness

How could it be two months since I last posted?  I say this every time.  Maybe I've internalized my day to day life so much that everything seems routine.   That said, here are a couple of highlights from the last two months.   Pics will be in the next blog entry. 

- Surb Sarkis - I was invited to celebrate the Armenian equivalent of Valentine's Day - dinner with a large group of Armenians at my favorite restaurant, the fish farm.   I've written about the fish farm before  and included a couple of pics.   I went with another vol who was visiting Gyumri.   As we walked from my house to the fish farm, we were navigating down a somewhat slippery hill when a man on a white horse galloped full speed up the hill past us.   That was a new experience and has relevance to the evening's events
Once we arrived at the fish farm, we were led to a  private room  containing a very long table filled w/ at least 30 people.   Fortunately some friends from Caritas were there so  I could converse beyond my simple Armenian.     We had entertainment:   a very good dancer demonstrating traditional Armenian dances and wore what looked like vintage costumes.   She was exceptionally graceful and the dances were fascinating to watch.   If I can get my hands on a video,  I'll attach it.  
Musicians played (two duduks which sounded so much better playing traditional music than they do when shrilling out bad pop), poems were recited and of course, many long winded toasts offered.  
My two favorite rituals of the evening:
-  a plate of soft crackers were laid out every few feet.   They are extremely salty.   An unmarried girl  is supposed to eat one, avoid drinking water and if her dreams include someone bringing her water, that is who she will marry. 
- all the guest were given small cups full of flour.   We trouped outside (its about 20 degrees) and everyone found a spot on the stone pathway to empty their flour cups.   My colleagues told me to remember where I left mine.    Then, according to old tradition, the "hero" rides to the location and if his horse steps in your flour and leaves a horseshoe print, you will have good luck in romance.    Sure enough,  the man on the white horse, now wearing a cape and a crown galloped down the hill and onto the stone paths.   He deftly managed to get his horse to plant his feet all over the path so most people has a horseshoe print in their flour.    If I looked at the right place,   my flour had a horseshoe also.   

The food was typical Armenian fare with the wonderful addition of the fish farms khorovats trout - yum.      

I am now so used to walking to and from the fish farm down and then up the slippery hill, across the rope that blocks the hill from cars (it would be wildly dangerous for a car to attempt the hill) and around a few deteriorating houses to my apartment building that it seems completely natural, not like an adventure in a strange land.    Have I gone native?    I doubt it, tho I must admit I am very used to meetings starting considerably later than the time scheduled and schedules themselves being quite flexible and prone to last minute arrangements.   It no longer makes me crazy, maybe a little anxious until I remember where I am and relax into the culture. 

Another high point of the last two months:  the actual beginning of my business incubation project- developed with Caritas -  that was funded through a Peace Corps grant (primarily by one big donation).    The goal of the project is to spark economic development in a rural village north of Gyumri (and act as a pilot for future economic development activities).    After reviewing business plans made during some Caritas training, we selected a proposed fish farm for the first business.   The unique thing about this grant is that our agreement with the business owner is that within the first year to 18 months, he regrants most of the funds he receives back to Caritas so another business can be funded.    This way, we are not simply handing out money (a method which does not produce sustainable results).   The business owner has to contribute part of the business costs himself and then must give back the funds he receives to support new efforts.    Having some skin in the game creates a stronger desire to succeed and makes it more likely that the grant money will be returned.   

The start of this business has taken much longer than I expected.   By the time the funds arrived from the Peace Corps (this is called a partnership grant - the terms are posted on the Peace Corps site and individuals can contribute to any number of projects listed on the site),  winter was on its way  - the village is at a higher altitude than Gyumri and is considerably colder.    So construction of the ponds quickly became problematic.    Finally, the business owner was able to secure access to an existing pond in the village so we could start growing the fish.   He will build the actual fish ponds on his land when the ground thaws in the spring.    Meanwhile he has been acquiring materials so he will be ready to go when the weather permits.    

So two weeks ago, Zhanna, Gurgan (Caritas employees) and I accompanied Sergei (the business owner) to a fish hatchery to buy the first 5000 fish.    The hatchery is in the middle of nowhere and I really mean nowhere.    The fish were loaded into a plastic tank in the back of a van Gergei borrowed, driven to his village and deposited in the temporary pond.    The water comes from a fresh spring and flows thru at a rate that prevents it from freezing no matter how cold it gets in the village.    Look at the pics of the process in the next blog. 

Another event that was fun for the Gyumri vols - Peace Corps week.   We were asked by administration to find activities that informed others about Peace Corps and encouraged volunteerism in Armenia.   We set up a program where the attendees heard from Peace Corps and Armenian volunteers about their experiences.  Ho hum.   The real fun was two carnivals we held in volunteer villages in the Gyumri area.    The carnival consisted of game stations with each one symbolizing a characteristic of a good volunteer.   Of course, the real point for the children was the games themselves.    We also made chocolate chip cookies with children at a local orphanage.    Again,  see pics in later blog entries. 

Last catch up item.   I've started the networking and other prep process to begin looking for  short term international consulting opportunities for when I leave late summer.     I'm spending much time on web sites of international development organizations and reordering my resume to include the Peace Corps experience and de-Americanize my resume so it is acceptable to European organizations.    I didn't realize how vocabulary can peg your nationality (for example, EEO is strictly an US concept;  fair employment practices is the more internationally understandable expression).   

Ok, we're caught up for now.    Look for pics. 

Monday, January 26, 2009

Patti, Mimi, Rebecca and Staci stayed at my house. The others came for dinner one of the nights.


Patti is in the foreground in this picture.














Everyone helps w/ dishwashing.











I still had the kitten at this point. Some people like her more than others. Rebecca is in the chair w the cat on her shoulder. That kitten is an amazing leaper, frequently treating a human as a tree and climbing up our legs to land on our shoulders.
















We began a 1500 piece puzzle. Patti and Staci getting started.








Dustin and Jason helping out.
















Jay fell asleep w/ the kitten on his lap. She is a great purrer.













She wasnt permitted on the kitchen table but she didnt recognize that rule.














Here's the puzzle after most everyone had gone home.
Dustin finally finished it while I was in Yerevan. I wouldn't begin to attempt one of these by myself.

I like winter

Dear Readers,

I never believed I would be saying the words written above. I am filled with peaceful thoughts as I ride to Yerevan thru a snowcovered landscape. Everything is so white and pristine-looking. I do miss the cow traffic jams - they are safely tucked away in barns, eating hay til spring comes - and walking in Yerevan and parts of Gyumri is an icy nightmare.

I've acquired the right kind of keep warm garments so I can walk outside for a good bit feeling the cold on my face and keeping my hands, feet, head and body warm. Pretty comfortable. Plus, I have the added advantage of living in an apartment where I have fairly reliable heat. The temp in my apartment ranges from 60 - 64 degrees which is very comfortable for me. If I get chilly in shirt sleeves, a sweater solves the problem.

Another factor in my pleasure at winter is that this winter is considerably milder than the last one. We've had several days with highs in the low 30s which did not occur at all last winter. We haven't had as much snow as I would like in Gyumri. I like having at least an inch or two on the ground at all times with new deposits every few days. That keeps alot of the ice at bay and makes it easier to walk with yaktraks. Love!!! my yaktraks.
It was snowing this morning as I walked to work. Very pleasant.

I spent most of the 2nd week in January in Yerevan interviewing potential Muskie candidates (grad school in the US for a masters degree) - 56 over the course of 5 days. A panel of 4 conducted the actual interview. The program administrator managed logistics, took notes and facilitated the ranking process. The other interviewers included a US Embassy official, a professor from the only internationally recognized university in Armenia and a former Muskie fellow. We had some lively discussions with wide ranging opinions, yet finally managed to agree on a ranking of all 56. Now the top people in that group will take the GREs and TOEFL tests, and those results will be forwarded to Washington, along w/ the interviewers' and readers' scores and the interviewers' ranking for the final selection. Overall, I was very impressed with the quality of the applicants and amazed at the self-determination many of them have demonstrated to achieve their current status.

I think I mentioned the big EU grant Caritas received. We start planning for it this week. Because its a 3 year program, we've set aside 6 months for a detailed planning process so we can get the right information and training to the right people and so that the 3 partners and Caritas are all on the same page.

The school supplies from the Asheville 4th graders arrived. I took them to the center where our exchange students spend their non-school hours during the day. After some discussion w/ staff there, we agreed that every child who wrote a letter to the Asheville children would get their own pen and pencil. The remainder of the pens, pencils, markers, erasers, sharpeners, etc. will be kept at the center and available for use by the children on a daily basis.

Next post will be some pics from the post New Year's weekend at my apartment.

Friday, January 2, 2009

Once again, I've taken way too long to add to the journal.

Spent a wonderful two weeks in the US including a week in Key West w/ family and friends.


This is a view of the grounds of my fave KW hotel from our room.


















The front balcony of the room. Relaxing w/ good friends.











Here are two examples of Christmas in Key West. Note the tattoos on the "Santa" in the Christmas parade.




















I had only a day and one night in Asheville, a couple of days in Durham and finished the trip in NY, including a visit to Zabars where I loaded up on foodstuffs not available in Armenia.

When I returned to Gyumri, I acquired a kitten (temporarily babysitting for a friend on vacation) who is a constant reminder that cats get everywhere. Here is Dustin playing w/ her.



The last two weeks of December whizzed by. An invitation to a few Armenian friends to experience an American Christmas dinner turned into dinner for 20 in my apartment. The most I had ever hosted there was 11 and that was tight. We ended up with 5 Armenians, the Gyumri volunteers and 6 other guests. I cooked a turkey and made cornbread stuffing and gravy. Others contributed salads, casseroles and desserts.

I borrowed forks and knives from another vol to get the requisite amount, and by washing the plates, cups and silverware a couple of times each, we managed to have enough containers to meet all needs. The fact that nothing matched was irrelevant.

We had a gift exchange called dirty Santa. Everyone brings a wrapped present and each person draws a number. In order, you pick a present or take the present someone else has chosen. If you take someone else's gift, they get to go back to the pile and pick another. And so forth. Lots of laughter. Ultimately a pleasant event. I still don't know how we got so many people in my tiny space.

I gave my final exam for my business English course and told the school I would not repeat the course next semester. Too few students and not enough interest in the class. I ate lunch w/ the director and discussed some alternatives. I may try to set up a short course in entrepreneurship or team activities for the two month interim before classes resume.

While I was in Asheville, I visited the school involved in our exchange program (4th graders) and met with the children. They were a delight. The difference in what is available to students in the US vs. students in Armenia was quite apparant. This class had elaborate computer equipment, very nice infrastructure and lots of supplies. The students decided they wanted so send some supplies to their Armenian counterparts.

They should arrive in a few weeks. I'm looking forward to presenting them to the Center where the Armenian students go. I'm also talking w/ the director at the Center about setting up a computer lab for the students. We'll get involved with that after the holidays.

I'm sure I wrote about this last year. The last weeks of December are a busy time for Armenians, especially the women, shopping, cooking, cleaning, cooking, baking, cooking for their big Nor Taree celebration on Jan 1. Each family prepares big tables full of food and the first week in January is busy w/ everyone visiting everyone else, eating the same food in different houses.

This year, two friends and I decided we wanted to spend Nor Taree in Yerevan and took off on December 30 to treat ourselves to my favorite b & b. We will be here til the morning of the 3rd, when we take off for a couple of days in Gyumri with one or two others who will all crash at my apartment. Since virtually all stores are closed from Jan 1 - Jan 7, I've already bought most of the food. I'll get a few perishables in Yerevan to add to the mix.

Unlike the US, New Years is not a go out to public place and eat dinner, dance and drink event. It is much more family oriented, tho w/ plenty of eating, dancing and drinking. We had a hard time finding a restaurant that was open New Year's Eve. We ended up being the only ones (6 of us) in what is normally a very popular and crowded restaurant.

The main square in Yerevan was festively decorated - bright, lots of neon. However, for a city of 1.5 million, the crowd at midnight was pretty sparse. I doubt there were more than a couple hundred people at most. Some mild fireworks preceded by pop singers and that was it for the celebration. Here are pics of the main square with Patti and Mimi braving the snow in the one below.


It snowed most of the 3oth and 31st, blanketing the city and making everything look like winter wonderland. There were NO restaurants open yesterday, so we visited one of the grocery stores and snacked all day. We're basically taking it easy, naps, books, walks, etc.

Today should be more of the same. This is a quiet time of the year for volunteers as the people we work with are all involved in family acitiives. For those vols who live in villages, they usually visit several families during the first week of January to participate in the celebration. The bulk of the visiting ends after Jan 6, which is their Christmas day. The Armenian Santas I've seen are not fat, don't pad their Santa suits and do not say "ho, ho, ho." In fact, one of the vols who was Santa for his school received many stares when he showed up plumped out nad ho ho hoing. Maybe fat Santa is an American phenomenon.

Caritas is closed until the 7th. I'll go in that day and then on the 8th leave for Yerevan to spend 5 days interviewing candidates for grad school scholarships to the US (the "Muskie" program). I read nearly 80 applications for MBA school before I left for vacation. A few of the people in our Gyumri English club applied under different programs (education, media/communications, international affairs, public policy, etc). There are usually a few hundred apps for 15 positions. I would love to see this program raised another exponent - 150 scholarships instead of 15 - as everyone I have met who experience a year in the US education system (similar progreams exisit for high school and college students) comes back w/ a much broader view of the world and greater knowledge of what could be instead of just what is.

Winter is likely to be busy with Caritas beginning the planning for their big grant implementation and hopefully, some additional work at the exchange student's center and maybe a couple of business class opportunities that are starting to evolve. Busy days and cocooning nights and weekends as we hunker down to manage the cold.